Mastering Demi-Permanent Colour with NXT: Insights from Holly Bullock

When it comes to demi-permanent hair colour, precision, creativity, and product performance are everything. That’s why NXT has become a go-to for professional colourists who want predictable results, beautiful shine, and rich, lasting tones without compromising hair health.

To highlight what makes NXT demi-permanent colour a game-changer in the salon, we spoke with NXT Brand Ambassador Holly Bullock. Holly is a true colour expert, known for her seamless blends, creative transformations, and practical tips that stylists can use behind the chair.

Why NXT Demi-Permanent?

NXT’s demi-permanent range is designed for versatility, whether you’re blending greys, refreshing faded lengths, adding depth and tone, or experimenting with a new look that clients can grow out with ease. Its ammonia-free formula is kinder to the hair while still delivering vibrant colour and incredible condition.

Stylists love NXT because:

• It delivers consistent, predictable results every time
• The tones are beautifully balanced and intermixable
• It’s cost-effective without compromising on quality
• Clients notice the shine, softness, and healthy feel instantly

Your Questions Answered

Holly has been answering some of the most common questions colourists have, so you can level up your results and your confidence.

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Q: Can I tone using a Demi?
A: Yes, a demi-permanent colour is a fantastic option for toning after a lightening service. All shades are intermixable and offer slightly more depth than our toner range, making them ideal for toning.

Q: When would you use a Demi other than toning?
A: Demi-permanent is incredibly versatile. It’s perfect for root melts, glossing or refreshing ends, full-head colours where no grey coverage is needed, and even pre-pigging before a colour change.

Q: Can Demi be used to root melt or root smudge?
A: Absolutely. Both the Demi and toner ranges are great for root blending. My favourite toner shades for this are 6-12 and 7-7 - especially when mixed together.

Q: Can the Demi shades be mixed together?
A: Yes, both the Demi and toner ranges are fully intermixable, allowing you to create endless custom tones.

Q: How can I identify the Demi shades?
A: Demi shades are clearly marked with a red dot in the permanent shade chart or can be found in the dedicated Demi shade chart.

Q: What is the mixing ratio for Demi and toners?
A: Both ranges should be mixed at a 1:2 ratio with the designated 5vol/1.5% cream releaser.

Q: What is the processing time for toners and Demis?
A: Up to 20 minutes. However, always monitor development - sometimes just a few minutes is enough.

Q: What are your favourite Demi shades?
A: Top picks include 9-03, 9-02, 5-77, 6-0, and 7-1 all great for a wide range of applications.

Q: What are your favourite toner shades?
A: 10-02, 7-7, and 9-13 are go-to favourites for beautiful, refined results.

Q: Can you use the metallic collection to tone?
A: Yes, but with care. The metallics contain ammonia and can shift the base. Let the mix sit for 10 minutes before application to allow ammonia to evaporate, as per manufacturer’s instructions.

Q: Are the metallic range considered toners?
A: No, they are permanent colours. However, when mixed 1:2 with 5vol/1.5% and used correctly, they can act as toners.

Q: Can Demi cover greys?
A: Demi-permanent colour is ammonia-free and cannot fully cover greys. However, it offers a beautiful grey blend that helps disguise them effectively.

Q: What is the difference between Demi and toner?
A: Demi colours contain more base colour, offering more opaque coverage. Toners have higher tonal value, giving a stronger tone.

Q: What is the difference between Demi and permanent colour?
A: Demi has larger colour molecules and no ammonia, so it cannot permanently alter the hair. Permanent colour has smaller molecules and ammonia, allowing it to lift and change the hair structure.

Q: Can Demi shift the natural base?
A: No, Demi is ammonia-free and cannot lift or alter the natural base.

Q: Can toner lighten my hair?
A: No, toner only adjusts the tone of the hair. It cannot lighten it.

Q: Can Demi be used as a filler when going darker?
A: Yes, Demi is excellent for pre-pigging or filling the hair before applying a darker shade.

Q: What does DT or T mean in the toner range?
A: DT stands for Deep Toner and T stands for Toner. These labels indicate the depth and intensity of the shade.

Q: Can I mix a permanent colour to make a Demi?
A: No, you cannot mix NXT permanent colour to create a Demi. The molecular structure and active ingredients differ, and mixing them will not produce accurate or reliable results. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions.